19 May FRANZ JOSEF

Woke up at 6.30 am.  Didn't really sleep well the night before.  The heater was set to default timer, thus automatically turned itself off every 2 hours.  The room got really chilly every now and then.  My single bed had a kind of odour.  Had no choice but to use the duvet and quilt provided. Between odour and getting frozen, you know what to choose.

We had Weet-Bix and hot chocolate for breakfast.  Feeling good to start a day with a meal of high fibre, low fat and low sugar.  The newly bought chocolate powder is 97% fat free.

By 8am, we walked to the glacier hike meeting point, which was only 200 metres away from YHA.  By the time we arrived, we saw a group of people was attending the briefing session conducted by an officer. We thought we were late. By right, we were too early, that briefing session was for those who attended the 8 hour full day hike. 

After reporting ourselves at the registration counter, I found out that jeans were not permitted for the glacier hike.  We rushed back to YHA to get myself changed into a pair of light, easy dry zippy pants, that used to belong to Bernard.

Although I already knew that the organizer would provide us with hiking boots, over trouser, rain jacket and crampons, I truly did not ever expect the hygiene level of those garments would be so poor.  So much so that my hiking boots' inner layers were wet, where water easily squeezed out every time I took a step; my socks were practically filled with water even before we depart to the hiking ground. Bernard tried to change a pair for me but I knew no one would care when I heard the emotionless lady at the counter replied to him :" well, it will get wet anyway."  Besides, the clothing provided smelt of cheese ( no kidding, they really were). My feet were soaked inside the great breeding ground of bacteria for the next 5 hours.  I was glad that we only booked a half day hike.  I tried very hard to hypnotize myself that I did not have foot, so I can enjoy the glacier like nothing had ever happened before.  Frankly, I was very disappointed with the equipment and the service of this company, looking at how they monopolize the market of glacier hike and the fees that they charge. They don't even bother to invest in a proper drying room.

Putting on the cheesy smell rain jacket

The face of 'what to do'.

Anyway, after putting all the negative feelings aside, the glacier hike was fun.  Bernard was delighted to see that my fitness level was above average.  Thanks to the daily work out in the gym for the past 8 months.  It finally pays.

After the briefing session, we were transported to the hiking ground in a red bus, which was also smelly, I guess it was maintained that way to suit our outfit :).  In the bus

After about 10 minutes, we arrived at the national park.  We then walked through the forest for 10 minutes.  It was really hard for me to walk with my wet heavy boots. Besides, the boots were too big for my petite Asian feet ( I wear a size 4).  So, heavy and damp, I dragged myself and kept telling myself I could do it.  We then continued the walk on gravel stone for 2 km.  The following path was a very steep granite hill.  This was tough. But you have no way to give up. Your mind would keep your body going because you wanted to reach the glacier terminal so much.  The guide made 2 stops along the way in order for us to catch our breath. 

The thoughtful hands

At the 2nd stop, we were taught to put on our crampons before we proceed to the glacier.  Hiking appeared to be a lot easier with the help of the spikes on the crampons.  

One thing that annoyed me throughout the hike was  due to the cold air, I kept having running nose. Before half way, I already finished up the one and only packet of tissue paper that I had.  Bernard even suggested me to just blow on my glove.  This was really the most unhygienic sports that I have ever done.  Imagine this, from the running nose to the cheesy smell rain coat and over trouser, plus wet socks and water filled boots.   While I was about to blow my nose on my scarf (at least better than what Bernard has suggested), I suddenly remembered there was a serviette in my lunch pack (we had to bring our own lunch).  That was such a big relief!

We stomped over and over on the glacier and finally we reached the glacier terminal.  Apart from all the disgusting experience, this hike was indeed one of the highlights of our trip. Standing amidst of the white glacier, you felt young, energetic and revitalized. The group enjoyed their own lunch pack on the glacier. I did not do so because I could not accept myself touching food with hands that had contacted with mucus.

By 12:15 pm, the sun was high up and we began to head down to the base.  Walking on the granite seems like a never ending journey.  This reminded me that there was a saying about a type of hell in Chinese belief, where some people with bad karma will have to walk non-stop under a very hot sun before they have the chance to reincarnate again.  I guess that was exactly how it feels.

The never ending granite road

The wrong bus

My feet were very puffy and were turning bluish while I removed the drench socks and water-filled boots.  After 5 hours of suffering, my feet finally achieved nirvana!

Upon returning to YHA, both of us rushed to take a head to toes shower. By 3pm, we headed out to a cafe called "All About Beans Cafe'" for lunch. Hot and juicy burger, we were in heaven. 

Heavenly taste lunch

After a great meal, we drove to Lake Matheson despite physically feeling tired.  It was another 45 minutes tracking in the wood before we saw the amazing mirror-like reflection on the dark water of this unique Lake.  Lake Matheson is famous because it reflects the right mountain, Mount Cook, the highest point of Southern Alps.

This lake was irresistibly beautiful. We would come back again tomorrow morning before heading to Punakaiki.

Feeling extremely wanting to pee, I was practically holding my bladder while running through the wood.  The only available toilet was the one in the car park area.  This was the 1st non-flush, deep-hole natural/wild toilet I encountered in NZ.  The toilet bowl was covered with sand flies.  I could not help but have to use it. What a day!